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 [TUTO] How to build a pincab

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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyJeu 14 Mar 2019 - 9:15

2sep10.png~ Plan of the tuto ~2sep10.png

CAUTION: For those who read this from their mobile phone or tablet, you may have difficulties to read some clear texts as this tuto is written from the computer version of this forum which is completely different. There is a solution for the mobile device users. For example, with Chrome you may display the computer version doing as described here

(As the pictures take time to download, if you click on the links below, you may not be sent to the right place. Try to wait for the pictures to be downloaded before clicking.)

2sep10.png~ How to build your Pincab ~2sep10.png

So, young Padawan, you want to craft your pincab, but you don't have a clue on how to do that ??? At school, you were playing chess and petanque. To you, computing is for antisocial foureyes and electronics for wackadoodle geniuses ? Anyway, you'd like to posess the pincab you saw on Youtube while wandering around. No problemo, you are at the right spot, Pincab Passion is gonna take you by the hand and lead you to the end of the adventure ! By the way : pincab means « pinball cabinet »

Let me introduce myself: I am zedrummer (aka zed) on Pincab Passion. I am not working in electronics nor computing, but I have been coding since I was 8 (I am 45). I have already crafted a MAMEcab, a first pincab for my father and at the time of writing this tutorial (october 2018) I am on another one…
[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen10

I'm gonna be helped by the whole staff of Pincab Passion, to try to cover the whole subject from different points of view.
Anyway, I won't be fully comprehensive, but you will surely find the other answers around here on PP

Let me first thank @peskopat for his excellent advice on formatting this text to be the easiest to read  [TUTO] How to build a pincab 1393933098 !

Warning : the choices we made in this tutorial are perhaps different than yours, but in the DIY world (aka « Do It Yourself », aka the world of people wanting to craft their own objects rather than buying them), there is no "I am right", your choices, even aesthetic, will always be the good ones as far as they fit to your gusts (and your budget). Even if, sometimes, there are... nonstandard choices, let's say.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 12e0604607fa1e8b3eca4dae4aec4542

Now, there is a lot to read, but this tuto was written so as to be read chronologically as your crafting progress, so it is not mandatory to wholly read it now. But the big part about equipment choices is necessary. In return, as it is the most comprehensive possible, you're gonna save the time you won't spend in looking for other tutorials.
This is long as the DIY interest is to fully know how to craft and repair, so you really need to understand what you do.

Colors explained :
-          a yellow text is a warning as you already know
-          a blue text is a existancial question
-          a green text presents a general knowledge about pincab, electronics, computing, etc...
-          a dark blue text is less important, you may ignore it
-          I try to draw your attention on the subject of the paragraph by writing it red

Warning : Crafting a pincab is time-consuming, really, once you have started, you're 100% focused on that. How to make it more convenient? How to make it more beautiful? How to make it cheaper? How to organize these fu... cables so that the inner pincab is not like a huge spaghetti pot? (How to convince your wife to accept such a huge and expensive piece of furniture in your little flat?)
All these questions will torture you even more that the crafting itself! And the crafting is longer than you can guess at first, it's like in a house, what takes you most of your time, it's the finishes. Assembling the cabinet and fixing the screens and the PC, it's only a matter of 2 or 3 hours, but adding toys (you'll see later what it is about) and buttons, it is a pain in the ass when it comes to connecting and organizing.
So don't even think about showing your pincab to your mates at the aperitif you organized for next friday!

Existential question : Is it exactly as a real pinball?
No! The pincab experts will tell you that there is a huge gap between them, the feeling has nothing to do with real pinball and it is quite true (even if we always try to get closer thanks to the toys), but it is still very fun and, above all, you have as many pinball as you want in a single cabinet!

Existential question : What does it cost?
Money being the crux of everything, you got to know that it is quite expensive. Apart from some recycling geniuses, you'd better expect to spend at least 1200€/1300$/1000£/90000₽. And it will depend on a lot of hardware and software choices. We are going to focus on that on the first part of this text. Being reasonable (and apart from the time, food and beverage you and your friends will spend on it), if you buy everything, it may cost up to 2500€/2800$/2100£/190000₽.

In the beginning of this tuto, I will give you advice on what you must (should) buy, and there will be a lot of links throughout the text, so you may miss some equipment later on. Don't worry, when all the equipment explanation is over, I will recap in a comprehensive shopping list. It will be purple as this text

So let's start about the hardware choices.

I/ Screen choices :

1/ The major choice (because it will have implications on all the other choices) is called the playfield screen./div>

Playfield (PF) : In a real pinball, this is part of the cabinet where the ball rolls among a lot of mecanical elements and you try not to let it reach the bottom

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen14

Here is the main difference with a real flipper: in your pincab, you will replace it by a TV screen.

As it is a crucial choice, let's see precisely the selection criteria.

First of all, you got to know that a 16:9 screen is not exactly at the right proportion of a real pinball playfield, to be closed to reality (, we should choose a 2:1 (ie 18:9). We now see 21:9 screens that are way too long (and way too expensive), but nothing in between, so let's stick to our 16:9.

So let's see the criteria one by one (click on the title for details):
  • Vision angle:
  • Vertical retrace:
  • Size (matters?):
  • Resolution:
  • Auto-on mode:
  • VESA mounting:

For the playfield, you should buy a HDMI <-> HDMI cable, as sound is transfered via HDMI cables and you may need that for the mecanical sounds of your pincab. If you chose a 4K TV, be careful to buy a high-end cable to be able to transfer the high quantity of data without any loss. For instance, I bought this cable

Warning : I will give a lot of links to webpages where I bought all the stuff needed. They may be available only in France so you'll need to find the equivalent in your country.

2/ Now that we know for the playfield screen, let's choose the backglass screen.

Backglass (BG) : In a pinball, the high part of the cabinet contains a rectangular Plexiglas with an image behind which some LEDs are flashing according to the action in the playfield, this is the backglass.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Flippe10

We use a screen for that too, as this image is different for every pinball game. For the definition, there is a difference of opinion, some says full HD is needed, I argue that this is only for a still image with flashes, you can easily buy a second hand 720p (or 1080i), it is perfect and you won't see the difference. You can find that for 50€/55$/40£/3500₽.
It is easier if there is a VESA mounting on the BG too.
And for the cable, you may choose between a HDMI <-> HDMI or HDMI <-> DVI ou DVI <-> DVI cable according to what is available on your screen and the video card.

Existential question : New or used?
All along this tuto, I will talk about used stuff, because it is an easy way to save money on devices when it deserves to take the risk. We may think that everything may be used , but there is always a risk of being cheated. When you buy used devices, you'd better see them and check they work before buying, but if you buy through internet, be sure to check that you may be refunded in case of a failure.

So let's get back to our BG. There's no table of correspondence between the size of the PF and that of the BG, but looking at these pinball machines:
[TUTO] How to build a pincab 5
we can see that we want the upper part of the cabinet to be larger that the lower part. Using Pythagorean theorem and the fact that the screen ratio is 16:9, we can fill a table like this (with all values in inches):

If you want to compute these dimensions for different diagonal measurements, the 2 formulas are height = 9 x diagonal / 18.358 and width = 16 x diagonal / 18.358

So now, if your PF is 40 inches, as we turn it in portrait orientation, it's its height that set the PF width, i.e. 19.610 inches. Then our BG width should be greater than that, for example a 27-inch screen with its 23.533-inch width should fit.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Schzom12

3/ Now, let's see how to display the score. For that, real pinball machines have a DMD, and we have several choices to copy it.

DMD : For « Dot Matrix Display », this is the way to display the score, but several animations and even some mini-games. The different choices are here shown in increasing order of awesomeness:
  • 2-screen configuration:
  • 3-screens configuration:
  • 2-screens + ZeDMD or pin2DMD configuration:

We can easily find old 15/17/19-inch screens as second hand for almost nothing or even for free at a waste collection sites (if the agent is kind enough to let you go with it). If the screen has a VESA mounting, it is better.
For the ZeDMD or Pin2DMD configuration, you'll have to buy a controller card, the dot matrix panels, it's about 80€/90$/60£/5900₽ if you are OK to spend some time on extra wiring and setting. But it deserves it: with a ZeDMD or a Pin2DMD, you reduce the size of the upper cabinet as it just fits to the BG and ZeDMD/Pin2DMD size. In 3-screen config, there is just a layer of the DMD screen that is used, so the remainig of the screen is unused space that extend the height of the upper cabinet. And once again, the ZeDMD or Pin2DMD are cloning the real pinball machine display, so...

If you go for a 3-screen config, don't forget to buy a cable to connect the DMD to the PC, a simple VGA <-> VGA cable should be enough.

You now have chosen the displays, there is just a last choice to make to perfectly determine what PC configuration you need: what pinball emulators/simulators you will install.

II/ Choosing the simulators

There are several simulators available for PC and they require different configurations. The 3 main ones are Visual Pinball, Future Pinball and Pinball FX.
How do these emulators work? They are just pinball table editors where we can set bumpers, flippers, ramps, textures, sounds, lights, reactions when the player do something, EVEN WHEN HE/SHE NUDGES (crazy, no?). Anybody can make a table, it is just a tedious work, then the program make it work following more or less the laws of physics.

1/ VP et VPX (Visual Pinball – Visual Pinball X) :
Actively updated, this is the one that get the closest to real pinball machines. In return, you need a high end PC.

2/ FP (Future Pinball)

Most of the tables on VP-VPX are based on FP ones. It is no more maintained, but the number of tables available makes it a good choice and it works on low end PC. The program and the tables are free.

3/ PBFX2 et PBFX3 (Pinball FX2 – Pinball FX3)

It is much more a video game than a simulator as it associates pinball and arcade. The program is free, but the tables must be bought. It works with a low end PC too.

The only one that require a high end PC is VPX, but it deserves it as you can get really close to the feeling of a real pinball and the updates are  making it even better.

Dernière édition par zedrummer le Dim 17 Avr 2022 - 22:32, édité 7 fois
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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyVen 5 Avr 2019 - 9:48

III/ Choosing your PC hardware

Now we can focus on this crucial question of the PC configuration requirement to run our pincab :
Video card:




Hard drives:

WIFI USB stick:

A keyboard and a mouse:

So it is now over for the equipment that will determine the size of the pincab.
IV/ Toys

We now enter unknown territories for the newbies. Pinball simulators work as soon as you have them installed on your PC linked to screens. If you did it and put it in the cab, you already have a working pinball machine (well, you need to connect a gamepad or use the keyboard, as the buttons are still not there). But...
As a good pincaber, you want to get close to the real pinball machine, to have big sensations, to feel your pixel ball as if it was a genuine chrome steel one, to have the most realistic sound, to see natural and punchy lights, etc... to that end, you add toys!
We will only introduce the toys here, for links to commercial websites, we will fill our basket on the next chapter and yo install them even later on.

Warning: The first time we want to craft a pincab, we are in a hurry to make it run and sometime, we neglect to add toys as it is much more time to install and connect them. DON'T! You don't need to install them right now, but, as it is quite space consuming, you must spare space for them, so you'd better know before starting which toys you could add.
A toyless pincab is not immersive like the 3D videogames we have today, to make it outstanding (and so to keep you addicted), you have to add toys!
Let's list these wonderful devices that will lead you to the pincab 2.0.

But first, let's digress as it will be useful:

You don't know what flippers and slingshots are? OK, let's get green to learn some vocabulary and speak the same language. For that, we need a picture :

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen15
(Not sure that the numbers are easy to read, but it's numbered from bottom to top)

1 are the instruction card, where you can learn what missions you should accomplish to earn many points and be the champion.

2 is the plunger to launch the ball

3 are the flippers controlled with the side buttons

4 are the slingshots, the two evil devices that make the game get crazy

5 are the targets

6 are the bumpers

7 are the lanes, they may be in plastic or metal.

So now let's get back to the point: the toys.

Contacters and solenoids:

2/ The backboard with either LEDs or LED-strips brings brightness and a lot of punch
Simple LEDs:
Addressable LED-strips:

The knocker:

The shaker:

The beacon(s):

Let's have another explaination for the following:

In a real pinball machine, there are sounds and musics from the speakers and sounds from the cabinet itself when the ball rolls and bumps into the different elements.
Our recent simulators can separate these sounds, once again to get closer to the real machine, in this case, we'll have speakers in the top cabinet for music and speakers in the playfield cabinet for the mecanical sounds.

Surround Sound Feedback:

The plunger:

Audio LEDs:

There are a lot of other toys, any electronic device may be driven with DOF.
Now, let's try to understand how electronics work to fill our shopping list accordingly.

Dernière édition par zedrummer le Sam 1 Fév 2020 - 17:41, édité 4 fois
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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyMar 16 Avr 2019 - 17:52

V/ Basics of electricity in pincabs and filling the shoping basket accordingly

Let's list here the mandatory equipment to buy. We won't deal with carpentry, as it needs you to have made sketches of the cabinet and so to already have your playfield, backglass and DMD screens.

Important warning:The ESD (for « Electro Static Discharge ») is not something to be taken lightly when it comes to practicing electricity, all the more if you are going to handle electronic boards like KL25Z, TEENSY, WEMOS, STM32, electronic components like resistors, transistors, and diodes, or PC components like graphics card, memory modules, motherboard, SSD and HDD.

Every friction between your clothes and any other fabric moves electrons. These electrons may create an electric charge on your body that can be instantly transfered to the next thing you touch. If it happens with your mother-in-law, you may argue that there is too much (electric) tension between you and her and you prefer not to see her again, but if it happens with one of the electronic components listed before, it may make it faulty (unfortunately, it doesn't work with your mother-in-law), it is fairly common. When you feel the electric shock, this high voltage, several thousand volts (but with a very low current, reason why it is not a big pain).

It happens mainly when the weather is dry (so on winter) and with synthetic fabric (it is unlikely to happen with cotton and wool).

Don't be paranoid, you don't get charged instantly, but you really need to get discharged every time you handle an electronic component. This is easy: either touch the ground connector of an electric plug (the male connector in the EU plug as shown in the next picure) or metal parts of a radiator connected to central heating.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Prise-installation-electrique-fiche-de-terre

The easiest way is to have an anti static wrist strap always connected to a ground connector like, but it is quite uncomfortable.

Once again, don't get paranoid, but be aware of this common problem.
1/ The mandatory tools

If you start in electricity, you need to get equipped a little bit and, unfortunately, it is a little expensive.
A soldering iron or, better, a soldering station:


A desoldering pump or braid:

Heat shrink tubes:


Little electrician pliers:

A multimeter:



A drill and [OPTIONAL:

Mini screwdrivers:



2/ General elements for the pincab

Those are the elements needed but not linked to any special device (PC, toys, screens). Let's take them in a logical order from the wall plug to the devices.

A wall plug to C13 cable and an external C14 plug:
Any kind of pushbutton switch:

A good multiple socket:
Cables & wires:


For the next sections, you will have choices according your taste.

The way you connect electronic (or interface) boards to the toys:

Ways to organize cables:

Ways to control the toys:

Ways to supply power to the toys:

Dernière édition par zedrummer le Mar 16 Nov 2021 - 7:15, édité 1 fois
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MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyJeu 18 Avr 2019 - 11:32

VI/ The pincab specific components

Let's have a general view of how the pincab works before describing element by element.

Warning: You will fill your basket every time there is a new element described, be careful to read everything about your configuration. If you see 3 pink stars between quotation marks !***!, there is something to buy in the paragraph.

Here is a general diagram of your pincab:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Sans_t10

Caption of the wires:
  • Black wire -> vidéo cable (HDMI, VGA, DVI)
  • Green wire -> USB cable
  • Red wire -> electrical wiring

Purple rectangles are electronic interface boards, either KL25Z or LedWiz or Arduino for the toys and buttons, and the ESP32 for the ZeDMD or STM32 for the Pin2DMD.

1/ Software general operation

Let's see what software is operating along the gaming experience of the pincab.

a/ The frontend
You've seen this word before, now let's see what it is. This software is launched at Windows startup as the frontend is like the waiter in the restaurant, it is the software that shows you the menu with all the tables available and it will come back everytime you have finished with one table and want to switch to another one. Once it is launched, we use the left and right flipper buttons to scroll through the tables and choose the one you want then use the "Start" button to launch the emulator with the right table. If you then use the "Exit" button, you'll come back to the frontend to choose another table.

Here are the 3 main pincab specific frontend (there are others for arcade machines):



Pinup Popper:

If you don't want to spend too much time to set the frontend up, try 1 of the 2 firsts, if you want to have more freedom for configuration, don't hesistate, take Pinup Popper!

b/ The pinball simulator

Once you have choose your table and push the "Start" button the simulator is run (so one of Visual Pinball 9/10, Pinball FX2/3, Pinball Arcade or Future Pinball) according the table you chose.
Each table is made for 1 simulator, you set it in the frontend. Even worse, VPX(=VP10) can't run tables for VP9, if you want tables only available for VP9, you'll have to install it too (we'll see later that there are package to install every version at once).

So what happens between the PC, the screens and the toys once playing:

PC to the screens:

PC to ZeDMD or Pin2DMD:

PC to toys:

I would strongly recommend that you buy 1 or 2 KL25Z (even if you don't have the need of 2, because you have enough ports with 1, having 2 may help to keep your cabinet tidy). Then you don't need extra board for the nudge and the buttons.

Just to be accurate on the difference between an inboud and an outbound port: An inbound port is a port where the board is checking the value (=voltage) sent by the device connected, an outbound port is a port where the board is sending a value (=voltage) to another device. So, inbound, the board is checking if the button is pushed or not, outbound, the board is sending commands to the relay or transistor to control the toy.

Buttons to PC:

PC to audio:

2/ Buying the toys

Let's close the chapter with the optional but so necessary toys! Here are some links, but you may take any other device you find:

For the LedBar:
- star-shaped RGB LEDs on Ebay
- des car LED strobes or 2 white LEDs

For LEDstrips, either read this excellent tutorial in French from @aetios here or see this post from TerryRed

For the contacters, you need 24VDC ones, there is a lot of them , but the Siemens 3RTxxxx and 3RHxxxx should do, anyway, before buying, you should ask on the forum, there are certainly cheaper brands. They are available on Ebay and in the ads of this forum.

For the solenoids, it is not easy to find links, you should see the WIPs (in French) in this forum.

For the knocker too, it is not easy to say this one is OK and this one no. A priori, they should be used with 48V but even in 24V, they seem to knock loudly enough. @peskopat gives us a video of his Williams knocker with 24V here

You can find a bunch of them on Ebay with "Knocker Bally" for example (the one I took for my cab) (often the shipping is the same price as the object itself).

Fro the shaker, there is a french tuto from@lololol here with interesting answers. @masterz wrote a tuto on how to use the shaker of a XBOX gamepad here

For the beacons, just find one or two car beacons (12V) that you like. I loved the police-like ones here for the blue and for the red. Caution, the plastic cover is quite fragile!

For the ball launcher, once again you should see with @vulbas excellent tuto here

3/ The buttons

Let's first identify the buttons we need:
  • You should have 2 for each side, 1 for the flipper and 1 for the magnasave or the volume.
  • In front , you need 1 "Credit" to add money, 1 "Start" to laucnh the table from the frontend and launch the game in the emulator, 1 "Pause" to... pause (optional and I find it really useless), 1 "Exit" to come back to the frontend and 1 "Launch" to launch the ball if you don't have a ball launcher. I strongly recommend to add a "Fire" button used in tables like "AC/DC" and others when you have to launch the ball to targets during a game.

To choose which buttons to buy, you got to know how it works: buttons are just momentary switches so the way buttons are acting on the circuit is the same for all. The difference is on the mecanical device that ensure the contact when you push the button or release it. Either the simple microswitches with many more choice but a click when you push or silent leafswitches with less choice. It is strongly recommended to use leafswitches for the flippers. You may do as you wish for the other buttons. If you take microswitch buttons, don't forget to check that they are sold with it, if not, you'll have to buy them.
@nussss shows you how to create your own leafswitch to replace the microswitch of any button here

There are different sizes for the buttons, I love to have big buttons for the "Credit" and the "Launcher" (My "Fire" is a big one, too). Sometimes size matters... There are 6cm ones here To put captions in them, just print on transparent paper and disassemble the button. For the other buttons, take generic 32mm ones.
You also have the choice of buttons with or without integrated LED. These LEDs are always in 12V, some may be controlled by the DOF to blink when they are useful.

4/ The stickers

A raw pinball cabinet, this is much less cool, with stickers, you create a story around your pincab. Generally, you put a sticker on each side of the upper cabinet, on each side of the lower cabinet and on the front face of this lower cabinet (where the door is).

If, like me, you have no artistic skill, you will have to find a third party and as the surface of the cabinet is so big, you'll need high resolution images.
Stuzza on is known to share some of his creations for free on this page (The high def images are at the end of the post). He can, against payment, do something personal. On Pincab Passion, we have artists too: @benoit33, @lavache599 and @magnum1976 (and certainly others).

For artwork printing, I can only direct you to French website, for example the cheap PixArtPrinting, you need to provide a rectangular picture with all the stickers at once.
@benoit33 can print stickers but I'm not sure he can send them abroad, see with him

Warning: Some shopping is still to be done, but only for parts of the cabinet, some carpentry, some ironwork and at last a glass to protect the PF.

Dernière édition par zedrummer le Dim 17 Avr 2022 - 22:33, édité 2 fois
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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptySam 20 Avr 2019 - 10:52

VII/ Draw sketches of the whole cabinet and buy what's necessary

1/ Carpentry

Here are some necessary rules to follow:

Don't forget the hole for the door:
Make access from the outside:
The cabinet must be ventilated:
Make a hole for cables between the upper and the lower cabinet:

How to fix your ZeDMD or Pin2DMD:

To make the cabinet sketches, I suggest you read my other big tuto on Sketchup here It is in French, but perhaps I will translate it one day. Don't hesitate, Sketchup is quite easy to understand, at least for the basic functions. In the tuto, you will find the sketches of my own pincab that you can modifiy and use for your own purpose at discretion.

You can saw the cabinet wood by yourself if you have the tools, but if you don't have them, in France, we have associations all around the country where you pay a low yearly fee (between 30€ and 150€) and you have access to professional tools (and often almost-professional advice).
The last choice is to have it cut by a professional, a carpenter or someone in the place where you bought your wood. With Sketchup, you can export 2D views (via Parallel Projection in the Camera menu) to give to the professional. On the second page of my WIP here, I posted the mail I gave to the carpenter to saw my wood.

Here is what you can easily draw with Sketchup:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen11

2/ Metal parts

Here, the best is to know someone who has skills in ironwork, he will make custom-made metal parts (so adapted to the siez of your pincab) if not, it may be quite expensive to buy from professionals. If you don't know anybody, you'll have to search on internet, sometimes on the second hand market. Anyway, the shipping is often quite expensive and you will have to adapt the pincab size to these standard parts.
On Pincab Passion, you may send a personnal message to @razorbaxx and see with him if he can send to your country.

What are these parts?

a/ The pinball legs
You can find new legs on Ebay like, this is way too expensive for what it is and the shipping is huge! You can find sketches of legs on one of the picture here You can change the total size according the height you want for the pincab.
As you see, there are 8mm holes at the bottom. These are tapped holes (i.e. with a screw thread) as under the legs there are leg levelers with rubber pads that you must buy like

b/ The lockbar
This is a rounded metal bar that is under your hands when you play:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 1022098
That is the part that can be a thorn in the side as the ones you buy on internet are standard size, so it imposes to adapt the width of the pincab to it, whatever the PF you have. So just for it, knowing someone who can make you a custom one is a great value.

c/ The side rails
As we lay a glass on the lower cabinet to protext the PF, the lockbar and the side rails hold it. It is really easy to do by yourself as it is just 2 angle irons cut at the right size.
For my pincab I used 20mm x 30mm ones.
[TUTO] How to build a pincab Les_ra10

d/ The Playfield stand
To fix your playfiled, you should have a VESA mount at the back of the screen. You should measure the positions of the screws to craft your stand.
You really should create a rotary stand to remove easily the screen to access below. Nobody can sketch this stand for you as it depends on your PF. Here are some examples, but adapt it to your screen.
Here is a picture from the WIP of @razorbaxx here

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Dsc01419

On the 6th page of the WIP of @Chucky01 there are pictures of his own stand here
A really easy way is the @Billy54 's on page 3 of his WIP here
Lastly, the cheap @Sblawx 's method with a simple plank, hinges and angle irons is perfectly in the Do-It-Yourself spirit on the first page of his WIP here

You'll find many other ways throughout the WIPs.

e/ The backglass stand

It is easier with the BG as you don't need it to be moved and you will certainly make a trap to access behind it. Once again you will use the VESA mount with metal bars. It's the example of @xav71 's system that is my favourite as once again it's reaaly cheap and easy to craft. On page 2 of his WIP, we have

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 01112
DIY spirit!

f/ A pincab front door
If you want to stick to the real pinball spirit, you will have to buy a coin door like or, a little cheaper, this one for arcade machines
I didn't care about the pro style, so I bought a cheap simple door

3/ Protecting the screens

a/ A glass for the PF
The only choice is the laminated glass as, if it breaks, it will remain in one piece, and won't fall on your PF. For the thickness, the 33.2 is perfect. Any other choice like plexiglas (that easily gets scratched), the tempered glass (that breaks into a thousand pieces but with no risk of cut) is not appropriate.
You order that at a glazier's and prices may be from 35€ to much higher!
To measure the size of this glass, just know that the glass will be layed above the playfield cabinet.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen17

b/ A protection for the upper cabinet front face
This protection has less risk to be hit or scratched. It will hide everything except the BG screen and the DMD, and you will certainly make holes in it for the speakers (you can make it in the sides of the upper cabinet wood too). You will paint it (for example with a paint spray) or stick a opaque tape on it for the hidden part. The blue highlited here is what we aretalking about:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen18

You may take wood, plexiglass or glass. The wood needs you to make holes for the screens. Plexiglass is perfect here as the holes for the speakers are easily made with a cylinder saw. To fix my plexiglass, I made grooves in the 4 wood planks around it and extend a little bit the size of the plexiglas to perfectly fit.

Now that the basket is full, let me sum up the whole list of components to buy

Everything is already listed before. Now you should have:

- 1 PF screen

- 1 BG screen

- 1 DMD screen or LEds matrices with a STM32 board and the neede cables
- 1 complete PC with motherboard, processor, memory, graphic card, power supply, SSD and/or HDD, WIFI USB stick, keyboard, mouse and all the video cables for the screens
- Everything for the sound, PC kits and/or amplifiers with speakers and/or exciters
- Everything for the power supply, wall plug to C13 an external C14 plug and a momentary button, a multi-socket, 5V, 12V and [optional] 24V power supplies or PC power supply
- Interface boards (KL25Z, LedWiz, Arduino MEGA 2560) ewith enough ports for the toys/buttons

- Some ULN2x03 (with their DIP socket and stripboards) and/or MOSFET modules and/or relay modules
- The toys

- Momentary buttons with their microswitch or leafswitch

- Stickers

- Cable/wires and Dupont connectors and/or terminal blocks
- Wood pannels
- Fans for the cabinet

- A front [coin] door
- Metal elements: 4 legs with levelers and pads, 2 side rails and a lockbar, and a stand for each screen
- A laminated glass (33.2 is fine) to cover the playfield

- Glass or plexiglass or wood for the front of the upper cabinet

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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyVen 3 Mai 2019 - 21:10

VIII/ Here we go for the assembly: electronics

This is the biggest part mainly for the theory, but the most interesting for me.

We are going to cover the wiring of any electronic device.

First are some electronics reminders. The 4 firsts are not mandatory and the only interest is to know which resistor value we have to buy for a series circuit. It is mainly used with RGB LEDs and white LEDs for the backboard, but with any low current device whose voltage is not strictly the one of the power supply in the series circuit of diagram of the V/2/h/:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen32

So if your toy voltage is not the same as one of the power supplies (24V, 12V or 5V, but the toy voltage must be below, anyway), you may use it adding a resistor to the circuit like this:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen33

(It may be wherever you want in the circuit, between the toy and the power supply or between the relay/MOSFET and the power supply would do too)
So if you have only toys that strictly have the power supply voltages, you may disregard 1/a/ to 1/d/ .

1/ Electronics reminders

a/ Ohm law
Easy and you should have heard it before: U=r*I or r=U/I

No you didn't? OK U, is voltage in V(olts), r the resistor value in Ω(Ohms) and I is the current in A(mpers).
Nothing to do with it right now, we'll put everything together in d/, just keep it in mind.

b/ Current is the same all along a series circuit

No formula, just this sentence "current is the same all along a series circuit":

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Exemple-circuit-loi-unicite-courant-300x169

On this diagram I took on a wiki, we just know that the current I2 is equal to the current I1 and the current going through the devices "A"s and "X" is the same, whatever "A"s and "X" are (OK they are Ampermeters and a light, but we could put LEDs or what we focus on, a resistor).
With the diagram at the beginning of the chapter, we write: I(Toy)=I(Resistor)

c/ Kirchhoff's voltage law
For a series circuit, the voltage given by the power supplies is equal to the sum of all the voltages of the passive elements (it means the non power supplying elements).

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 260px-Loi_des_mailles

On this diagram, the circle is a power supply and all the rectangles are the passive elements like our toys or our resistor. The Kirchhoff's law states that Uad=Ucd+Ubc+Uab.
With the diagram given at the beginning of the chapter, we write: U(Power Supply)=U(Toy)+U(Resistor).

d/... and it gives us the value of the resistor we need for our LEDs

If you buy a star-shaped RGB LED, each color (red, green or blue) is a separate LED and needs its own voltage. The one I gave you a link in the shopping list, you can read in the description:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen34

So the red component needs a voltage of around 2.4V, the green and the blue need 3.6V. And all the colors needs a current of around 350mA=0.35A (for a total of around 3x350=1050~1000mA).
Let's take the red LED and let's assume that you use a 5V power supply (the closest value above the ones off the LEDs):
  • From b/, we know that I(Resistor for Red or Green or Blue LED)=I(Red or Blue or Green LED)=0.35A.
  • We know that U(Power Supply)=5V and U(Red LED)=2.4V and U(Power Supply)=U(Red LED)+U(Resistor for Red LED), so, from c/, we know that U(Resistor for Red LED)=5-2.4=2.6V. With the same calculations, we get U(Resistor for Green Led)=U(Resistor for Blue Led)=1.4V.
  • And from a/ we know that r(Resistor for Red LED)=U(Resistor for Red LED)/I(Resistor for Red LED)=2.6/0.35~7.4Ω. With the same calculations, we have r(Resistor for Green LED)=r(Resistor for Blue LED)=4Ω.

As you quite everytime don't find the exact value you need, always take the value just above (never below). There are normalized values for the resistor called standard E3, E6, E12, E24, E48 resistor values that you can have explanations on here
We easily find E12 values, but E24 is quite common too. So in our case, for the red you may take the E24 7,5Ω, but in case you just find E12, 8,2Ω will be OK too. For the green and blue, either 4.3Ω or 4.7Ω will do.

And now we are over for the electronics lesson!

e/ The common ground
This is more a principle than a rule. Try to respect it as much as you can!
You got to know that you may connect all the grounds of the different devices together. Be it direct current or alternating current in a 3.3V or a 230V circuit, always try to connect the grounds and the tip-top-notch way is to connect all these grounds to the earth pin of the wall plug!
Why? For safety reason, of course!
The electron is as idiot as a lemmings (yes, it is that extreme!): it sees a way to the earth, it rounded up its mates and they dash towards it straight (as a lemmings I told you), it is even its first objective in its life!
Then in a circuit, when you connect the ground to the earth, you give a way to all the lost and clueless electrons which arrived there inadvertently (when you touch it when you've accumulated static charge, or when a wire contact another one that it shouldn't be) to the earth to avoid them to mess around elsewhere they could create big troubles.

f/ Understanding voltage (of a power supply)
When you buy a power supply, the voltage given (e.g. 5V) is a difference in electric potential between its terminal - and its terminal +. It means that there is no absolute value 0V at its - and +5V at its +. By convention, we say that the earth is at the absolute value 0V, so if you connect the - of your power supply at this earth, you can say that the + will be at the absolute value +5V, BUT if you connect the + at the earth (you can do it without any problem) so the + will be at 0V and the - at -5V.
More, if you connect the + at the earth and you take a 12V power supply where you connect the - at the earth too (so it will be connected at the + of the 5V supply), you will have a 5+12=17V power supply between the - of the 5V and the + of the 12V.
You understand now why we are only interested in a difference in electric potential and not in absolute value.

Let's list all the electrical/electronical devices and the way to use/wire them.

2/ Power supplies

Not a lot of things to say, just some practical remarks.

a/ Using a PC power supply

With a PC Power Supply, we will use the 24-pin ATX, SATA or MOLEX connectors.

The ATX connector looks like this

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Atx24-broches-200

The easiest is to buy this kind of adapter so you will have direct access to ground, 3.3V, 5V and 12V power with terminal blocks.

Another way is to cut the plug and get the power at the wires. Here is a diagram of the plug with the color of the cables:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Atx24-cablage-200

For the SATA plug, black is ground, red is 5V, orange is 3.3V and yellow is 12V:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen21

For the MOLEX plug, black is ground, red is 5V and yellow 12V.:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab LP4POWEXT12.B

b/ The switch-mode power supply
You need one per voltage (5 and 12V at least, for the 24V of the contacters and knocker, you may prefer a step up booster, see below).
Take the cables wall plug <-> C13 I told you to take earlier, cut the C13 plug, you'll have 3 wires. Here is how to connect them to you supplies:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_2012

(OK, the blue should be connected to the N and the brown - red sometimes - should be connected to the L, I switched them, it's a mistake, the signal will be 180° phased, but it's not a problem... so do it the right way, this is the convention. But never switch the green and yellow with the others!)
Then use your glue gun to cover the connections to avoid them to be touched while you operate inside.
Now you have the ground at -V and the 5V/12V/24V at +V.
There may be a little screw at "+V ADJ" to adjust accurately the +V voltage. It won't change a thing for your toys, but may be useful for the ZeDMD or Pin2DMD as if the voltage is too high, the colors may be blurred.

c/ The the step up power module

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen22

It can't be simpler: You connect your 12V according the + and the - to the IN (red arrow), the LCD screen displays a voltage you can adjust with the screw (green arrow) and you get that voltage at the OUT (blue arrow). That's all!

3/ An interface pannel

What I call a "interface pannel" is (from my WIP):

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 2eplan10

or this picture from the WIP of @vivien

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_3910

On the above pictures, there are no fuse, if you decide to protect your circuits with fuses, you'd better put them on this pannel. For example on the @Shadow_SHD's WIP on page 5, we have

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_0038

With all the toys, your inner cabinet will look like a hideous spaghetti dish and everytime you add a new wire, it will pull the one next to it and, if you decided to go for Dupont connectors, you are quite sure that it will disconnect it. Using such a pannel takes more time, but it is much more stable.

Nothing special to say on how to do it: you got to the local waste site, take a thin wood piece and cut out of it a rectangle, the smallest you can according what you want to put on it not to lose too much space inside the pincab. On my version, the wires pass under the pannel to make it even more resistant.
The boards have been screwed directly to the wood, but you can use PCB legs like The ULN stripboards have been glued to the wood.

Now let's talk about electronic wiring.

4/ Interface boards

I used only KL25Z, so I will give links to tutos (in French) for the other boards.

a/ The LedWiz
Follow the @tetrafred 's tuto here [url= et celui de @vulbas ici] et celui de @vulbas ici[/url]

b/ Arduino MEGA 2560
Follow the @Aerios 's tuto here

c/ KL25Z
Even if I'm a in familiar territory, here is the tuto you should follow to install your KL25Zs. It is @peskopat 's one here
Warning: I bought KL25Z on AliExpress that were not updated at all, I tried everything listed on the tuto to update them with Windows 10 but it didn't work. I have no choice but to install Windows 7 on a little partition just to update them!

I used the excellent idea of @fcdrik with his Excel tables here, I just changed them a little:!mYAkFKaY!FiMfOupXh_LBwfoJimXamaww4vAhIKpfkDyLrKKbVZ4

In the first sheet, I put pictures of the needed infos. The left one is from the KL25Z official website and the second one from PinscapeConfigTool.
These infos are available on the @fcdrik picture:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 410

where there are infos about the inbound ports (for buttons).

Then there are 1 sheet per KL25Z where I can fill in the "Correspondances sorties" which toy will be affected to which KL25Z port "Sorties":

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen42

You then know that the back center contacter will be connected to the #3 port and the back right contacter to the #12 port...

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen43

and then you can fill the DOF configtool accordingly.

Now, how do we wire the KL25Z?
From the first picture above, you see to the right column "Entrées" that there are 2 GND (ground), one of them should be connected to the common ground (above all, if you want your toys to work, to the relay/MOSFET/ULN-module grounds).
The "5V" will be connected to the relay/MOSFET-module "VCC" and to the ULN "COM".

The outbound ports used for a toy will be connected to the relay modules "IN1", "IN2",... "IN16" or the MOSFET/ULN modules inbound ports (we'll see that in toy wiring section).
The inbound ports used for a button will be connected to any of the 2 pins of the button (we'll see that more accurately in the button wiring section).

d/ The ESP32 for the ZeDMD or the STM32 for the Pin2DMD
Now you can follow the whole installation tuto. Here for the ZeDMD or here for the Pin2DMD, install it and test it.

5/ The ULN, MOSFET and relais (or "alimentation modules")

I give you explanations here, but you'll find wiring examples in the next section, the one for the toys.

a/ The ULN
The diagram of the ULNs is:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab DEogzw1398158745

The little notch at the top will give you a reference to know how to turn your chip.
The "GND" to the bottom left must be connected to the common ground (or at list to the interface board ground).
The "COM" to its right must be connected to the + of the 5V power supply.
The other pins to the left are inbound ports so they should be connected to outbound ports of your interface board. The ones to the right are their corresponding outbound ports, so they should be connected to the LEDs. The outbound ports must be connected to the "-" of the LEDs, and you connect the "+" of the LEDs together and then to the "+" of the 5V power supply.
Each ULN2803 gives us 8 ports and each ULN2003 only 7.
Each ULN outbound port can provide up to 500mA to a LED, but if you want more, you can use 2 (or more) ports for the same LED. In this case, the corresponding inbound ports must be connected to the same interface board outbound port.
To make easy to change the chip in case it breaks, you must use a DIP socket and solder it to a stripboard:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab VEROBOARD_sample

I cut them at the right size and I scratch the copper at the center so that the left side is not connected to the right side.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_2010

I then solder the DIP socket on it (the socket is on the other side of the stripboard, where there is no copper, as you solder the copper to the pins where the socket IS NOT). This is easy to solder wires or, like me, terminal blocks to the stripboard for each pin of the socket and you can glue the stripboard to your interface panel:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_2011

(OK, it looks like snot, and so?)

b/ MOSFET modules

I use the diagram of @fcdrik

[TUTO] How to build a pincab 20160314

The inbound ports are to the right. This is a 4-MOSFET module. For each, you have (from top to bottom) a "-" to connect to the common ground, a "+" to connect to the "+5V" of the interface board and the pin to connect to the outbound port of the interface board. BUT, all the "-" are already connected in the module and all the "+" are connected too, so you only need to connect one of each. You need female Dupont for these pins.
To the top left, you have the "POWER": connect the "+" to the "+" of your power supply and the "-" to the common ground.
Below are the outbound ports to connect to the toys like if it was a power supply. The MOSFET, like an ULN, commands via the "-" so if you prefer, you can directly connect the "+" of your toy to the + of the power supply.

c/ The relay modules
As we said before, the relay is very different from the 2 previous devices as it is mecanical, it uses a coil that will create a magnetic field that will close the circuit.

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Relais10

The inbound ports are to the right. The black "GND" goes to the common ground, the white "VCC" goes to the interface board's "+5V" and all the green "INx" goes to an outbound port of the interface board.
The upper right jumper must be set so as to connect "VCC" and "JD-VCC".
On the left terminal blocks, you have 3 screws per outbound port. It is a mistake to connect, like I did, all the red wires as you may use different voltage for each outbound so each red wire could be connected to its own power supply. The red wire goes to the "+" of any power supply, and you connect the "+"of your toy to the blue wire. We don't use the bottom screw as it is to reverse the way the relay functions: the circuit is always closed except when there is a HIGH voltage in the corresponding "INx". We use the top one as the circuit is always opened except when there is a HIGH voltage in the "INx".
The "-" of your toy can be connected to the "-" of the power supply (or to the common ground if you connect, like you should, all the grounds together).

6/ The toys

a/ The RGB LEDs

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Led_rg10

As you see on the picture, the ULN and MOSFET that you'll use for your LEDS (as they can reproduce a PWM signal) commands through their "-", so you will connect all the "+" of the LED together and to the "-"of the power supply. The ULN will connect/disconnect the LED from the ground.
So each "-" wire (red, green and blue) will be connected to a different outbount port of an ULN, that's the reason why we need 3 PWM-ports of the interface board for each RGB LED. But not directly, as we seen before, the voltage of the 5V power supply is not the one we need so we need to put our resistor here:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Led_rg11

b/ The strobes
- If you use 12V car strobes, you are going to use a MOSFET or a relay. On the one I proposed you through a link, there is a black box that you won't need. Cut the cable between the strobes and the box, you'll have 2 wires, a red one and a black one. With a MOSFET, connect the red to the power supply's "+12V" and the black to the outbound port of the MOSFET, for a relay, connect the black to the power supply's "-" and the red to the outbound port of the relay. They blink together, so you only need 1 interface board and relay/MOSFET port for both.
- If you use white LEDs, as they blink together, you still need only one port of the interface board, but you will need more than 1 outbound port of the ULN as it only supports 0,5A. See how much current, and so how many ULN ports are needed for both the LEDs (I saw some that need 0.65A for each, so you'll need 1.3A and so 3 ULN ports) and connect 1 outbound port of the interface board to that number of inbound ports of the ULN. Then connect the the corresponding outbound ports of the ULN to the "-" of the white LEDs.

c/ The LEDstrips
The outstanding tuto of @Aetios is comprehensive with diagrams, etc... so no need to reinvent the wheel

d/ The contacters
They may produce a reversed current, so we will use a diode 1N4007 for each connected to its 2 poles. Take care to connect the diode the right way (grey part to the + of the contacter). Here is a diagram taken from the 7th page of @grozby88 's WIP here

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen19

Once again, if you use a relay, connect the black wire to the common ground and the red one to the outbound port of the relay supplying 24V. If you use a MOSFET, connect the red wire to the "+" of your 24V power supply and the black one to your MOSFET.

e/ The solenoïds
I didn't use them, but there is no pole, so connect only according you use a MOSFET or a relay but regardless of which solenoïd's pin you use. It seems that you need a diode for that too (according the 12V supply poles).

f/ The knocker
Proceed exactly as you did for the solenoids, except that you need a 24V power supply.

g/ The shaker
Here again, please follow the available tutos. Don't hesistate to read the answers in the thread as some are giving extra informations.

h/ The beacon/s
Once again, proceed exactly as you did for the solenoids (12V). According to the pin you connect to the power supply + or -, the beacon will rotate in either direction, it's up to you. I have 2 beacons and like to make them turn in opposite direction.

i/ The SSF or separate mecanical sound
If you chose SSF, go for the @Shadow_SHD's tuto here, if you prefer a simple separation musics+rom sounds/mecanical sounds, go for @doraj90 's tuto here
For this last tuto, I only suggest to use exciters (I bought the ELECAUDIO EXC-70) instead of the speakers for 2 reasons: 1/ you won't have to drill a hole in the lower cabinet 2/ as the cabinet is quite big, there is a lot of surface of wood for the exciters to produce their sound, so it's perfectly adapted.

j/ The plunger
Again, now you can complete the @vulbas 's tuto here

7/ Buttons

To connect your buttons is easy: there is no power supply and the button is just a switch. Just be careful that the button must open or close the circuit between the inbound port of the interface board and the GROUND of the interface board (or the common ground if your interface board's ground is connected to it, as suggested), but not the +5V.
There are several types of switch in the buttons:
The microswitch with 2 pins like

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Micros10

Easy, 1 pin to the ground, 1 to the inbound port!
It's the same for leafswitches

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen30

You can use any of them for the ground or the inbound port.
But when you have 3 pins like in this microswitch

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Micros11

Don't use the upper right one as it is a reverse mode pin: the circuit is closed everytime except when you push the button.

Lastly, if your button as a LED, there are 2 extra pins on the side:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen31

The problem is that the LED is a diode, it has a + and a - and you may mount it in either direction on this socket so you'll have to test when you plug the 12V power supply to it to know which one is the + and which one is the -. If it lights up, it's ok, if not, disconnect quickly and change (it shouldn't burn in 2 seconds, but avoid to let it 10 seconds).

8/ Test your connections of the toys (KL25Z only)

For the users of the KL25Z, there is a nice program to test your connections, you should already have installed it while updating the cards: PinscapeConfigTool.
So when everything is connected, PC to the KL25Z and KL25Z to the toys, launch PinscapeConfigTool. If things are well configured you should have something like that on the screen (for each KL25Z):

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen39

Click on "Outputs" and a new window opens where you can test each outbound port of this KL25Z:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen41

The PWM ports are adjustable with a cursor and the others just with a button ON/OFF.

9/ Complete diagrams of toys

Let me close this chapter with these diagrams between toys and a KL25Z (I don't have any other, sorry).
I wrote in french so be advise that:
- "terre" is "earth" as I connected the common ground to the earth
- "alim" is "power supply"

A RGB LED with an ULN2003A:
A contacter with a relay:
A beacon with a MOSFET:

Here is a post with several comprehensive tool wiring diagrams. This is a lot of work thanks to @Mick_03 and @Aetios who made them.

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[TUTO] How to build a pincab Empty
MessageSujet: Re: [TUTO] How to build a pincab   [TUTO] How to build a pincab EmptyLun 6 Mai 2019 - 8:20

IX/ Software installation

We now reach the end of this big tuto, you'll shortly have a perfectly working pincab.
This will be mainly links to other tutoshere and there on PincabPassion.
You should already have a Windows 10 working and updated, all your interface boards should be updated too and your ZeDMD or Pin2DMD (if applicable) should work (if not, go back to the tuto here

A lot of people want to install an emulator to see it working before even crafting the cabinet, all the more when you have the PC, the screens and you wait the parts in their looooong way from China, so perhaps it is too late for you, but...

First, this is a summary, you have the excellent post from @nicofab18 here

which is far more comprehensive. Anyway, I think I give here some basic explanations about how it all works that may help.

1/ Simulators

You should install the simulators before the frontend as the latter needs to know where they are installed.

a/ Visual Pinball
So, as I said before, the different versions of Visual Pinball are not compatible, you must install all of them to have access to all the tables. For that there is the All-In-One (AIO) Installer. Thanks to @peskopat 's tuto, it will be a piece of cake. Look here It will be much easier if you install it at the C disk root directory. You will certainly use these 3 versions of Visual Pinball:VP9, VP9+Physmod5 (=an improved physics engine) and VPX.

For Visual Pinball, the functioning is quite unusual. For the recreations of existing real pinballs, VP needs the ROMs of the real pinball , this is a file that contains the missions, the reactions according where the ball is going, all the animations for the DMD, all the things specific to that table. We install a program called VPinMAME that can decode the content of the ROMs for them to be used by VP. VPinMAME is installed with the AIO, BUT VPinMAME does not decode Stern's recent tables. So there is a modified version of VPinMAME called SAMBuild that you should install above VPinMAME to play to these tables. Look at the tuto from @Shadow_SHD here

Each table needs its file (.VPT for VP9 and .VPX for VPX) that should be uncompressed in the "Tables" directory of "Visual Pinball" along with its .db2s file for the backglass (this latter must have the exact same name to be used).
If the table is a recreation, you should have a ROM file to put as a .zip (so DON'T UNCOMPRESS IT) in the directory "VPinMAME\roms" of Visual Pinball.

If you want to download tables for VP9, go here and to ask questions here
For VPX, here and here

For some original tables, you'll need a file called UltraDMD to have a DMD working. For that follow the @nicofab18 tuto here

Now, if you didn't already, you can complete the configuration of the sound either via sound splitting here or via SSF here

Now let's have a look at the common mistakes of the beginner:
- don't forget to put the rom expected by the table in the directory vpinmame\roms uncompressed (still in .zip format). To know which one is expected, open the table script clicking on the "Script" button in the top left and look for the line "cGameName=xxxxx". The expected rom is "", you can directly search the name on internet. If the expected rom is not at the right place or not the right one, you'll have a mistake "terminated before initialized"

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Captur10

or if there are mistakes in the rom file, a "Game info" window should open

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Img_2010

- If the backglass doesn't show up, look at the @bip-bip-72 's tuto here and the common mistake at 5) on modifying the script.

- If you have "Force exclusive fullscreen mode" checked in the video options, you won't see your mouse cursor on the playfield screen. It can boost the rendering, but it is quite annoying while configuring your pincab

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen37

b/ Future Pinball
For FP, you can rely on @doraj90 's tuto here
Only 1 .fpt file to download for each table and you can find them here

c/ Pinball Arcade
Pinball Arcade is a Windows game from FarSight Studios downloadable on Steam here The game is free, but you must buy table packs to get them. There are mods to make it work in cabinet mode here

d/ Pinball FX2 VR et FX3
The Pinball FX are free games from Zen Studios downloadable here You then buy a table or a pack. There is a cabinet mode only available in the steam version.
You can find tutos on how to make it work with your pincab here

2/ The frontends

a/ PinballX
Look at @bip-bip-72 's tuto here

b/ PinballY
It is a recent one, but @JEJE38 already wrote a tuto here

c/ Pinup Popper
Its tuto was made by @Shadow_SHD , it is here

3/ DOF and DOFLinx

Your pincab as it works now is a big video game, to make it mecanical like real pinball machines, you must give life to the toys. The emulators don't give orders to the toys, we use DirectOutput Framework to monitor them and send orders to the toys accordingly.

a/ DirectOutput Framework (DOF)
Don't hesistate, we have a comprehensive tuto from @peskopat here
If you follow it, eventually, you'll shout: IT'S ALIVE!

Making DOF works with every table is a big job, we can be proud to have in our community one of the main DOFfers: @arngrim.Thanks to him!

That was for VP, for the others, we need DOFLinx.

b/ DOFLinx
The best is to follow strictly the @razorbaxx 's tuto here

c/ If you use relays to command your toys, here is a specific remark.
When you use a relays board this board is command via the ground signal and not via the +5V of the interface board. If you have a KL25Z board to command them, here is how you change the way the board signal is sent. Go in PinscapeConfigTool and for the board that command the relays, click on Settings:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen35

Then head to the very bottom of the page, you'll have:

[TUTO] How to build a pincab Screen37

According if this is a relay or if this is a MOSFET/ULN, check or uncheck the ground sign you can see in the above picture framed in red.

4/ To go further...

To complete this comprehensive tutorial, you can add extra softwares to improve ergonomics of the pincab. There is a list of them in the tuto from @peskopat here

Now this tuto is over, I hope it will help you take the great leap forwards and start to craft your pincab. Pincab Passion is still a very active community so don't hesistate to ask for more precisions on the forum.



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